Friday, March 7, 2008
Wednesday, March 5, 2008
So, with San Diego out, the only thing to do now is head north. We are about 10 miles east of Yuma proper, which makes it easy for us to get on US Hwy 95 and head north to I-40 which will link up with I-5 in Sacramento. And you all know where I-5 north will take us. I figure we will be home within the next 10 days or so if we keep up our drive-one-day-rest-one-day schedule.
Just to say a little bit about Yuma, the tour book explained that it was the only known land passage to California when the west was being settled. It was first discovered by a priest, who didn't really do much with his discovery. It was re-discovered by a different priest who built two missions and established a settlement here. But then, in the last uprising of the Yuma Indians, the priest and the entire settlement were wiped out. It was not explored again until another 50 years later when Kit Carson came here. (I always love coming across names like Kit Carson, Billy the Kid, and Davy Crockett.)
So that's about all I have to say for now. It was quite windy when we arrived, and I really hate those big winds. We haven't done much exploring so far. We aren't too far from the pool and the hot tub, and so I expect we'll walk over there some time this evening. This is a big snowbird park for sure, and the activities on the calendar are geared toward people who live here for months at a time. While I was checking in, a gentleman from Wyoming was in the office taking care of some business. He was saying that he would be heading home the week of April 1st unless the temperature got above 100 degrees. And then he would be leaving sooner. The woman behind the desk told him that it is forecast to be 90 degrees on Sunday. When Mike and I lived in Phoenix, this was the time of year when people started taking bets on which would be the first 100 degree day. Oregon sounds better and better.
Despite the comment from the CPM of the City of Yuma on my last entry (We've been trying to figure out what that stands for. Certified Public Menace is the only thing we've come up with.), we have no plans to make Yuma our home. We are Oregonians all the way into the far-reaching future. I'll keep you posted on our progress as we travel north, but I think we are about finished with sight-seeing. I'm hoping that my next pictures will be in my own woods in my own yard.
Tuesday, March 4, 2008
Mike has not wanted to make the trip home a "death march," and so we are alternating driving days with staying-in-one-place days. It makes it a little easier. I did a little driving when we were on our way to Big Bend, but if the highway has more than about three other cars on it, I'm still timid about driving. This means that Mike does 99% of the driving. We will probably spend a few extra days in Yuma and explore it a little. We are considering it as "the place" we might want to come to spend our winters in the future. We have looked at several places (Tucson among them), and so far, we haven't found the spot that fits us.
We are staying at the same park where we stayed as we were traveling east. It's a nice park, but it is teamed up with an RV sales and service business, and so there is some pressure to look at RV's and also the irritating problem of gasoline-powered golf carts cruising the park looking for potential buyers. There is a Camping World next door, which would be very nice, except for the vultures swooping down on us every time we walk over there. Annoying to say the least. We are parked on the other side of the park from the sales people this time though, and so the golf cart traffic has slowed considerably. We do like the city of Tucson, however, and have considered it as a place to live if we ever were to decide we'd had enough of Oregon. (For my part, I doubt that will ever happen.)
So there are still lemons on the lemon trees, which is a thrill for me. I'm easily impressed. They have two nice swimming pools, and one is striped for lap swimming. The temperature is a little cool, however, and so I haven't really done any lap swimming. They also have two nice hot tubs. They aren't as big as the one in Las Cruces, but they are very deep. Chest deep for me. My worst pain in my shoulder has flared up and so I intend to take advantage of the hot tub very soon.
That's pretty much all I know for now. We'll be leaving again tomorrow for Yuma, and I'll let you know what happens then. We haven't been to Yuma except for when we lived in Phoenix and we traveled home to Oceanside and Vista in Southern California. We will be looking at it with fresh eyes this time. Back then, it was the first sizeable city on a very long drive to home. So, stay tuned for news about Yuma--exciting, I'm sure. Take care. Hugs all around.
Saturday, March 1, 2008
Yesterday we went scuba diving in the San Solomon Springs swimming pool. It was excellent practice, although not much of a dive site. We came to realize that tropical fish have evolved for protection and mating by becoming bright in color. The fish in this area are very silvery, and that seems to be their way of identifying one another. Well, except for the catfish, and they are black. We saw two endangered species, the Channel catfish and the Comanche Springs Pupfish. Pretty cool. Mike took some pictures underwater, and I took pictures above. I'll give you a link at the bottom of this entry.
The pool was absolutely filled to the brim with little schooling fish, mainly Mexican Tetras, Round-nosed Minnows, and Pupfish. There were also bottom feeders in the way of catfish. Occasionally, a predatory Sunfish makes its way into the mix, but it has been determined that they don't eat enough to create a problem for the endangered little pupfish (2 inches long). The catfish are anywhere from 4-12 inches. There are also the cutest diving ducks called Lesser Scaub. We enjoyed watching them very much. And there are spiny softshell turtles. We saw several of them, but we weren't able to get pictures of them. There is also another kind of turtle called a Mexican slider, but we didn't see any of them.
The funny thing about this is that the schooling fish, all varieties about 2 inches long, who followed us all over the pool. When we were diving, they seemed to identify us as their fearless leaders, and they followed us everywhere by the thousands. They also nipped at us because they have come to associate swimmers with food. People feed them all the time, and so this creates a problem. It didn't really hurt, but it was terrifically annoying. We're told the turtles will bite too, and there is a rather large one. (We learned this from the dive shop guy, who teaches diving in the pool.) I'm referring to the pool as a "pool," but technically it is an open body of water because it is spring fed. We were also able to see the many little holes on the bottom where the spring feeds in 1 million gallons of water per hour. That's a lot of water!
It was a shallow dive from start to finish. It was also high altitude and fresh water. For those of you who know about diving, those three things mean that it is difficult to control your bouyancy. As far as I'm concerned, bouyancy control is the most difficult part of diving. In shallow water and with all of the other factors coming into play, it was necessary to be pretty heavily weighted to keep from popping back up to the surface all the time, and having so much weight made it difficult not to end up dragging your equipment and your body across the bottom of the pool. It was 25 feet at its deepest point, and the deep leg off the main pool gets as shallow as 12 feet at the far end. (There is also a shallow leg that comes off the main pool, but we didn't go into that area.) Still, I'm bringing this up because we both did really well controlling our bouyancy, and so we are feeling pretty good about that.
So we're in Las Cruces for a few nights. After that, we'll be heading toward Yuma, AZ, which is a two day drive (two days for us weinies--one day if you're in a hurry). We'll probably hang out there for a couple of days. Then we'll head over to San Diego where I want to visit my mother's grave and place some flowers. Then we'll head north on I-15. We expect to be home around the third week of March, but don't hold us to that date. It all depends on the weather and whether we like the parks we find along the way. (Weather and whether.)
Here is the link to the pictures:
Thursday, February 28, 2008
We are only about 30 miles north of where we were staying in the Davis Mountains. This is a Texas State Park built around a natural oasis. San Solomon Springs is a cluster of artesian and gravity springs that discharge around 25 million gallons of fresh water per day into what otherwise is an arid valley. The south and west is bordered by the Davis Mountains. Rain caught by those peaks percolates down through faults in the limestone bedrock, emerging into spreading wetland pools that were used for thousands of years by Native Americans to water their animals and by early settlers to irrigate their crops.
The most unusual aspect of San Solomon, however, is that during the Great Depression, the Civilian Conservation Corps turned the springs into what was then the world’s largest spring-fed swimming pool. In recent decades this pool has become a favorite open-water site for scuba training and recreational diving. Divers from Colorado, New Mexico, Kansas and every corner of Texas come here to do their open-water certification. Cool, huh? (Because where else would they do it???)
The pool is 200 feet in diameter and around 25 feet deep. It was constructed right over the outflows of several major springs. Radiating out from the circular pool in a “v” shape are two legs, each 70 feed wide. Both legs were originally more than 300 feet long. One was left shallow as a wading and swimming area but it was eventually shortened due to insufficient water circulation to maintain clarity. The other leg slopes upward from the central pool to about 12 feet deep at the far end. There, the water flows out through a canal to feed Balmorhea Lake, which is the reservoir for a system of canals that irrigate almost 13,000 acres of farmland.
Originally, the 3.5 million-gallon pool was lined with local limestone blocks and bordered with flagstone paving. Over the intervening years, however, the native rock has flaked, requiring capping with concrete to preserve the walls and adjacent walkways.
The bottom of the pool has undergone a different kind of transformation. Natural processes, including blowing desert sand and breakdown of the limestone lining blocks have created a silty substrate that supports a carpet of hydrilla and other aquatic grasses. An assortment of freshwater animals, including spiny softshell turtles, Mexican tetras, and channel catfish feed off the grasses. Two species of endangered fishes also inhabit the pool: Comancine Springs Pupfish and Pecos Gambusia (mosquito fish). Because of this metamorphosis from swimming pool to natural habitat, in 1992 the San Solomon Springs pool was reclassified by the Texas park system as a natural body of water.
We went snorkeling yesterday and we saw the catfish and the Mexican tetras. We also saw the cutest little ducks that swam on the surface, and then dove clear to the bottom of the pool to feed on stuff in the grass. They could stay down for minutes at a time, and then used their little feet to propel them to the surface. It was delightful to watch them go from bottom to top and then pop out on the surface. We had no idea ducks were such good swimmers.
So far, I haven’t taken any pictures of the area, but I probably will today. There is a dive shop next door to the park, and we intend to go over there and look into the price of renting weights and tanks. Aside from that, we have all of our own gear. My right shoulder has been flaring up, and so I need to have it settle down again before I can think about diving. Maybe tomorrow. For today, we will explore, and I will try to get you some pictures of the place.
In the meantime, here are pictures from the last week, beginning with our hike to “The Window” in the basin of the Chisos Mountains (Big Bend NP).
Here is the link to pictures I took around our campsite in Big Bend:
I got up before sunrise to take these pictures of the Chisos Mountains from the Rio Grande Nature Trail. The trailhead was in the campground where we stayed:
Here are some pictures taken from the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive that runs south through the park until it dead-ends at the Mexican border at the Rio Grande. We took the Santa Elena Canyon Hike here:
Here are some pictures taken in the Davis Mountains along the Davis Mountain Scenic Loop and at the McDonald Observatory. There were six domes for telescopes at the Observatory. We were in two of the smaller ones. Some of these pictures were taken at the top of the hill, but the dome I have pictured is of the largest telescope, the Hobby-Ebberly Telescope, which was 432-inches across its reflective surface, an array of hexagonal mirrored pieces about three feet each.
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
If I understand the story right, the University of Texas had plans to build a telescope when they learned that a university in Pennsylvania had plans to build a similar telescope at 15% of the cost. The two schools began negotiations to build a telescope together and these two families were involved in the initial development plans. This area is absolutely in the middle of nowhere. It would be hard to find any place in the country any farther away from even a very small city. There is no sky glow from any city or town. We were outside in the frigid cold for several hours last night, and we could detect none. The sky was so dark, in fact, that we were able to see a sheen of light that looked like sky glow; in fact, it was made up of particles of dust in the air—the same dust that formed our planet—called zodiacal glow. Mike, being an astronomy buff, was very excited about this since he had never seen or heard of it before.
As a part of the talk beforehand, we were treated to a view of an iridian (sp) flare. These are caused by the system of satellites that were put into orbit by a pre-cell phone-era company that was banking on the ubiquitous use of satellite phones. They were, unfortunately, not practical for the casual user and the company went belly-up. They sold the satellites to the US government to be used for military communications. As they pass overhead, they are constantly being adjusted and readjusted. Because of that, they catch the light of the sun in the same way and mirror would, and they flash VERY brightly. We were looking at Sirius (the brightest star in our field of vision) for scale, and as the satellite passed by, it did indeed flash much, much brighter than Sirius for just a few seconds. Very cool.
After the talk, we were treated to five telescopes trained on different celestial objects: Saturn, a nebula within Orion’s belt, the Andromeda Galaxy, a star cluster (M46 to you astronomy buffs), and the Pleiades (Just think of the Seven Sisters—or Subaru in Japanese, we’re told). It was great fun, and although it was extremely cold on this high hill, it was well worth the shivering to see all this stuff.
So this afternoon we moved on to Balmorhea State Park, still in west Texas. We are finding we like west Texas very well. No sign of the idiot thus far. It has taken me quite a while to get through this particular blog entry, and I still have many pictures to sort through. We have been out of touch for more than a week, and I can’t post my slideshows, or even upload them, without an internet connection. We have used Mike’s cell phone for virtually all of our internet usage, and so without cell phone coverage, we are out of luck. (And, of course, if there is no cell phone, you can bet that there is no internet either.) So stay tuned. I have lots of pictures to post, and more to bring you up to date on our comings and goings. We have missed being in touch with you for this past week, and we are very glad to be back in some semblance of civilization. I will be posting pictures of the things I've been telling you about within the next day or two.
To get back to Big Bend, we drove the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive yesterday. It is a 32-mile drive where one can see most of the major features of the park. (By the way, Ross Maxwell designed the scenic drive. He was a geologist and also was the first superintendent of the park.) The road dead-ends at the Santa Elena canyon where the Rio Grande has cut a 1,500 foot tall canyon that is about 40 feet across. There is a hike that takes you back nearly a full mile into the canyon itself. The beginning of the hike takes you about halfway up the canyon wall, and then down to the water’s edge.
There are only a few places that you would want to put your feet in the water, but we were warned against that since the river is polluted with farm and ranch run-off. It is a pea-soup green and filled with silt. It is a “lazy” river. By that I mean, that it is barely moving. One wonders how it could have cut such a deep canyon; but it is filled with silt, which, given a million years, can easily carve out such a formation.
Along the river’s edge grows a “hedge” of reeds that are about 12 feet tall. The reeds were used by Indians and settlers to make roofs and other structures. Indeed, we stopped in at the visitor’s center before we reached the trailhead, and there was a nice patio that had a reed roof. It was a nice place to stop and have some lunch before we did the hike. It was very warm that day (over 90 degrees), and the temperature in the canyon was absolutely heavenly. It would have been uncomfortably warm to do it with the sun directly overhead, but we were there around 2:00 pm, and so the sun had dipped below the canyon wall on the Mexican side. Which brings me to the other thing we loved about this hike: there is something very special about standing at the river’s edge on the American side and looking across at the opposite wall where Mexico begins. This was true wherever we stood next to the river, and some of the most beautiful formations were in Mexico.
The previous day we had hiked the Rio Grande Nature Trail which started in the campground where we were staying. It was a self-guiding trail, meaning that we dropped a quarter in the slot at the beginning of the trail, and took one of the pamphlets that talked about various features along the trail. One of the things we saw was the metatas, which were nearly perfectly round holes in the rock where the Indians ground up grains for food—like a natural mortar and pestle. We have seen these in Mesa Verde NP as well. We also saw fossilized seashells, attesting to the fact that Big Bend was once completely underwater.
One of the most charming things we noticed along the trail were hand-made wire scorpions, painted walking sticks, necklaces and polished stones that were left along with a donation can by the Mexicans who crossed the river and left them there for American’s to purchase. (Donations were also welcomed.) Interestingly, a sign at the beginning of the trail warned us that it was illegal to possess these items; however, they were for sale in the visitor’s center. Sheesh. I had already ignored the prohibition and purchased some of the items along the trail—they were so charming—before I noticed they were for sale in the visitor’s center. I would way prefer the Mexicans have their profit than to give it to the federal government. I am a national park lover, but I thought that particular bit of profit-taking was shameful.
I have been talking along the way of acting like a real photographer and getting up before dawn to take pictures in the best light. (Sunset is also a good time when the colors are very saturated.) I found a spot along the trail that was enticing and so I did get my equipment ready the night before so that I could go the next morning. The only thing left for me to do was to drag my bones out of bed early enough to hike up to the ridge before the sunrise. And I did it!! I will post some of the images I took in that early morning trek. I thoroughly enjoyed watching the sun come up, and also, I saw Venus in the early morning light. It was the brightest object in the sky.
So this morning, we woke up still uncertain whether we could stay another day or move on. I kind of wanted to stay for the sunset photo-op when the Sierra del Carmen mountain range (on the Mexican side) was particularly beautiful. We were in for a very hot day, and despite the nice breeze that kept us cool, we decided to move on. (Now we have a reason to return. There is nothing on the way to this park and it is a long way to reach it. If you go, it will be your destination.)
This afternoon, we drove into Davis Mountain State Park in Fort Davis, TX. (There are a lot of forts in Texas.) We weren’t sure what we would find here. It is above 5,000 feet, and so we were worried, needlessly, about the temperature. It is 80 degrees at 6:00 p.m., and we still have a perfect breeze keeping us comfortable. Fort Davis is in the heart of the Davis Mountains. It grew as a strategic point on the San Antonio-Texas Road. It was established in 1854 and manned by troops of the Eighth U. S. Infantry who, mounted on mules, fought the Comanche Indians.
The canyon is formed by Limpia Creek, flows through the Davis Mountains, and is a centuries-old oasis for travelers. The park includes a part of the creek and nearly 2,000 acres of rolling grasslands and intermittent Desert Oak trees that cover the mountains. There is a 74-mile scenic highway that makes a loop through the Davis Mountains and includes Madera Canyon and McDonald Observatory, which is part of the University of Texas.
The observatory hosts star parties on Tuesday evenings. A giant Hobby-Eberly Telescope is connected to a gallery that offers interpretive programs. We will be able to view the stars and planets through telescopes, and so we are staying three nights here to take it in. The moon happens to be at a good phase for this since it doesn’t rise until late into the evening. Since there are no large cities within 200 miles of this place, the sky should be very dark. We are looking forward to driving the scenic drive, and to attending the star party.
We are still out of cell phone range, and therefore, no internet. We will be able to use our phones in town (about 10 miles away), but we still will not have internet access. I could post these entries, but I cannot make a slide show without internet access. Therefore, I’ll still have to wait to post these entries. Sorry for the length of all this. We are definitely making our way back now. I will continue to blog until we get home.
The plan at this point is to return to the park where we stayed in Las Cruces. (We really LOVED that hot tub.) We’ll probably spend a few days there. Then on to Yuma, AZ, which is snowbird heaven. My own grandparents used to winter over there from Nampa, Idaho, when I was a little girl. I hadn’t even learned to swim yet, and so you will know that was a very long time ago.
After Yuma, we are planning to spend a day or two in San Diego where my mother’s grave is. I have not been there, and I would like to visit her. I attended her memorial service when she died, but I have not seen the place where her cremains are interred. After that we will continue to head north. We are planning to stop the Palm Springs/ Palm Desert area. We are still searching for the place we might want to winter over as a permanent destination. By that I mean that we will pull our trailer down and stay for the entire three months, or at least the bulk of that time. We wish all of you well. Take good care.
This is one of the few places where it has been warm enough that we can wear shorts and sleeveless t-shirts. The temperatures have been running in the 80’s and there is a perfect cool breeze making it very pleasant. There are a lot of birds in this area since it is a transition point for birds migrating north from South and Central America, and south from North America. Just now, I took a walk through the campground and was able to get some good pictures of Roadrunners, which seem to run the place. There are also Gila Woodpeckers, White-winged Doves, crows (of course), and a red bird called a Summer Tanager.
Big Bend is one of the least known and most remote of our national parks. The riverbanks of the Rio Grande are a wetland habitat for birds and other river critters. There are also black bears, mountain lions, deer, javelina and bobcats. North America contains four big deserts: the Great Basin Desert, the Mojave Desert, the Sonoran Desert, and the Chihuahuan Desert, which is the most easterly and southern of the four. One of the most common plants in the Chihauhua Desert is the Lechuguilla (lay-choo-GEE-ya), and it does not grow in anywhere else. Like the Century Plant, it blooms just once in its lifetime before it dies. When it blooms, it sends up a fifteen-foot, asparagus-like stalk with tightly packed purple and yellow blossoms. It is not a cactus, but is actually related to the daffodils, while the agaves are related to the amaryllis family.
Yesterday, we hiked the Window Trail into the Chisos Basin. The Chisos Mountains are a rugged range that is completely within the boundaries of the park. There is a narrow canyon that runs between the mountains called the Chisos Basin. Within this area there is a small stream that flows down and pours from pool to pool to drop through “The Window” on the west side of the basin. This waterfall drops over two-hundred feet into a small inaccessible grotto covered with ferns and surrounded with oaks and maples—down on the edge of the desert.
This was a rugged, but beautiful hike between towering red bluffs. At times, the trees shaded the trail, making it comfortable, even though the temperatures were warm. There is quite an elevation change, but the switchbacks, steps, and areas of relatively flat terrain made it an easy hike both in and out (4 miles round trip). Toward the extreme end of the hike, the canyon becomes very narrow, and the rocks quite slippery. The view from the edge is quite impressive, and a big wind blows, making it seem all the more forbidding. The slick rocks made it quite dangerous to attempt to go to the edge and look over, but it was enticing all the same. I will post what pictures I have of it, but it was difficult to encompass with the shadows on the canyon walls and the bright valley below. ( . . . I saw below me a golden valley . . . ) We also saw a few javelinas and some white-tail deer, which are small. I would estimate their size to be a little smaller than an antelope. There is only one deer species that is smaller, and it lives in Florida. We enjoyed this hike very much. While the goal of the hike (reaching the window) is a short-lived thrill, it was very much worth the effort it took to get there.
I suppose that’s about all I have to say for now. I will post some pictures as soon as I am able, but we are out of cell phone range, and there is no internet available here. I’m afraid this will be one of those times when I post several days worth of entries. For those of you still reading, I apologize.
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
We left Port Aransas this morning and made the first of many legs of our journey home. We abandoned our plans to go to Brownsville, which was about 100 miles south of where we were. We decided we wouldn't see anything we hadn't already seen in Corpus Christi. So now we are heading for Big Bend National Park, which is one day away from us. We drove north on I-37 from Corpus Christi to San Antonio. All along the way were signs marking that route as a hurricane evacuation route. Thank goodness that isn't anything we have to worry about. I tried to imagine all the people leaving Corpus Christi and driving north on both sides of the freeway. Everybody heading out of town--nobody coming in. Scary enough for a Stephen King novel.
Tonight, we are in Del Rio, TX. We're staying at an RV park called "Buzzard's Roost RV Ranch." I think that's all you need to know about this place. I'll leave the rest to your imagination.
Del Rio is a town of about 34,000 people. It is a major inland shipping point for wool and mohair and it is also an international entry point. Directly across the Rio Grande from us is Ciudad Acuna, Mexico. Keep in mind that the Rio Grande, in addition to being the 2nd longest river in the country, is also the international border between the United States and Mexico. I have been doing some reading about Big Bend National Park and its history, specifically where the river is concerned. People used to cross over and back without a thought. Today, of course, is a different story.
This will be my 50th post to this blog. Seems like some kind of celebration is in order. Tonight, we're going to eat dinner out (and grab a couple of our favorite Applebee's margaritas), and then stock up on groceries. (Do we know how to celebrate, or what?) Big Bend is a remote park, and not really near anything other than a few convenience stores. There is only one gas station, and so we are hoping they sell diesel. We plan to spend several nights there to explore the park, and so we'll want to be stocked up on everything we'll need. There is, fortunately, a concession-run campground inside the park, which means it will have full hook-ups. There is always the possibility that it could be full, however, and so we are planning ahead. There are also three other campgrounds without hook-ups.
After we get to Big Bend I feel confident I will have more pictures for you. So stay tuned . . .
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Thursday, February 14, 2008
After talking it over, we've decided to start heading for home next week rather than staying until March 5th. There are no refunds here, and so we have paid for the entire month whether we want to or not. Live and learn, I guess. It doesn't really matter since the price structure is such that a two-week stay (and two-week pay) add up to approximately the same amount as staying for the month. Mike went in to negotiate about that, but there is no negotiation; so, to make sure that no one uses this spot after we leave (not until the 5th, at least), we will read the electrical meter, and make sure we pay for no more electricity than we have used. We can pull out without any notice, and they won't know whether we're returning or not. They won't be able to rent the space. Two can play this game.
We still want to see the USS Lexington (tomorrow) and the Botanical Gardens (Monday). Then we'll leave on Tuesday and head for Brownsville, which is in the extreme southern tip of Texas. We can always decide to return here and use the rest of our month, or we can head for home traveling right along the Mexican border until we reach Big Bend National Park. We want to spend several days exploring that park, which is very large. As I read it, it will probably be a four-night stay to see the whole thing (or most of it, anyway). Then we will start traveling for home. There are some towns along the way that might make future winter destinations, and we can check those out on the way.
I've been preparing a special Valentine's Day dinner for the two of us tonight. It's the biggest kitchen undertaking I've done since leaving home. Each dish is simple and with just a few ingredients, but it should be festive nonetheless. I miss my kitchen at home, but I'm not sure if it's the kitchen or the cooking that I miss. It's been a nice break from trying new recipes, but I'm feeling a need to get back to it now.
We are still at least a month away from being home, but we will be back a little sooner than we had originally planned. I suppose it's possible that something along the way will capture our attention enough to hold us there, but we aren't anticipating that. I will continue to with my blog entries, and I'll be taking more pictures. Stay tuned. For now, Happy Valentine's Day to all. We will be seeing you again soon.
Monday, February 11, 2008
The weather was crummy yesterday, and so we visited the Texas State Aquarium. That's one attraction you can cross off your list of things to do if you ever visit Corpus Christi. It was very expensive ($33 for the two of us) and definitely not worth the price. When we arrived, the dolphin show was about to begin. We always enjoy seeing the dolphins, but they did not have a large enough tank to show their stuff. There wasn't enough depth or length for them to really get up a head of steam. If you've ever seen dolphins, then you know that they are very fast swimmers. They seemed content with their living space just the same though, and we saw them playing with different toys they had (balls, rings) after the show was over. One of the dolphins liked to give the trainer high fives after each of his tricks. Pretty cute. However, the show was nothing special.
After that, we had a heck of a time finding the exhibits. They had two gift shops that were easily accessible. We had to work much harder to find the aquarium exhibits. The river otter exhibit (our favorite) was shut down completely. They had an alligator (singular) and some pretty spectacular birds of prey. We also enjoyed the bird show they put on where they showed a barn owl (so pretty) and a white-tailed hawk (also incredibly beautiful). They showed a couple of mammals, one a cousin of the raccoon with a prehensile tail, and another was a cousin of the anteater with a 16-inch tongue for getting ants out of tight places. Ewwwww! It looked like a big worm coming out of his pointy little mouth. We did like that show, though and so donated an additional $5 into the basket for their rescue program.
Aside from that, their best features were their "iron garden" exhibit which was designed to look like the reef habitats that form on the oil platforms offshore and also their Amazon exhibit, which included poison dart frogs--very colorful. As I'm writing this, I realize that we did enjoy what we saw--we just thought the price of admission was too high, in addition to paying for parking.
But I want to tell you a little about Corpus Christi, which was a beautiful city right on the bay. There are at least two big bridges, something like our Fremont Bridge, that are tall enough for ships to pass under without the necessity of a draw bridge (meaning VERY tall). And there are a lot of ships since the area between the barrier islands and the city is a shipping lane. The port was not as large as Portland, but the ships were equally big. We also got a glimpse of the USS Lexington Museum, right next to the aquarium. We could have visited it too since we had plenty of time after the aquarium, but we decided to save it for another day.
Corpus Christi was first explored by Europeans in 1519, but it was a landlocked bay for another 300 years. There was a trading post established in the area, and the town became a trade center for the nearby cattle ranches and the Mexican border towns. It was transformed into an international port when the Army Corps of Engineers dug a new ship channel in the mid-1920's. After that, it was the deepest port on the Texas coast and attracted many of the businesses that form its industrial base.
The city's importance was further enhanced when it attracted a Naval Air Station and its advanced flight-training school. The NAS is one of its major employers and also includes the Army Depot, which is the primary repair facility for Army helicopters. Indeed, there is an awful lot of helicopter noise where we are and we have seen a lot of military helicopters flying in and out.
Despite its big city stature, it has retained its earlier small-town flavor, much like Portland. Also like Portland, it has a 2.5-mile-long seawall in the heart of the business district. Our seawall protects us from the river, theirs protects them from the Gulf of Mexico. There are also more than 100 miles of beaches on the barrier islands (Mustang Island, where we are, and Padre Island where there is a national seashore).
I didn't take my camera into Corpus Christi yesterday because aquariums make notoriously poor subjects for photography. I was sorry I wasn't able to take pictures of the bridge and the USS Lexington, but we will be returning to see some other attractions, and I will definitely have pictures for you then.
I do have some more pictures of birds, plants, and seashells for you. Here is the link. I hope you enjoy them. I am having fun taking them.
Sunday, February 10, 2008
We're just spending our days hanging out, reading, sitting by the pool. The pool could be a little warmer, so we just sit in the sun until we get too warm, and then the water feels good. We usually swim a little, or do some aqua jogging, and then get in the hot tub, which feels good on old bones. We've decided to eat out tonight since we are almost certain that the seafood will be excellent.
We're starting to feel very comfortable here. There is generally someone in the hot tub, and we've had some interesting conversations. One man was wearing a hat from Costa Rica, and since that's some place we'd like to see before we die, it was nice to hear that they had enjoyed their trip very much. Yesterday we talked with a couple from Ontario, Canada. It was interesting to hear their take on our presidential campaign and some of the things they'd noticed about our country. We had a good laugh when they pointed out that John McCain had made a comment about "getting away with" using Canadian quarters in the Senate Lunchroom vending machines. He said it as though he was getting a better deal using Canadian money when, in fact, Canadian quarters happen to be worth more than American quarters at this point in time. They got a good laugh out of that since the joke was on McCain and he didn't even know it. (This is not a paid political announcement, and John McCain did not approve of this message.)
We talked about the differences in our political systems and also about our respective systems of taxation. They have until the end of April to file their returns, but their equivalent of our W-2 form was not required to be in their hands until the end of February. What interested me most was our discussion about their national healthcare system. I asked them to estimate what percentage of their income went to taxes. Even with national healthcare, he estimated the percentage to be at 15%. I don't know about you, but I feel fairly certain we pay more than that. He also told us that they were required to purchase supplemental health insurance if they travel to the United States since Canada will only reimburse at the rate Canadians would pay. Under their Canadian plan, they (the citizens) pay $4.11 for every prescription no matter what it is. Also, he said that if they needed some kind of procedure while they were here, the Canadian government would be just as likely to pay them to be on a jet for home rather than have the procedure here.
So that's about all I know about Canada for now. I'll continue my sleuthing while I'm in the hot tub as I plot to overthrow the Canadian government. (Just checking to see if Canada is up on my blog.) So that's about all I have for now. Tomorrow we're planning to drive into Corpus Christi to do some grocery shopping; but before that, we'll see one of the attractions I have marked to see before we go. I'll have more for you then.
Saturday, February 9, 2008
1 part frozen Bicardi Margarita Mix (we're using a spoon to scoop out the concentrated mix)
1 part gold tequila
1/2 part triple sec
Shake in a shaker full of ice. Strain into a martini glass.
We're on the lookout for the Newman's Own Limeade to make our comparison. Thought you'd want to be in on this very important experiment. Pictures to come--not of the margaritas--pictures of the Gulf of Mexico.
Friday, February 8, 2008
Aside from that, George and Krissy got walked yesterday. We have trailers across from us and to either side, but behind us are dunes with beach grass growing over them. We have a small patch of grass to call our own. We've started picking up George and taking him behind the trailer so that he can't see people and dogs walking by. There are also a couple of short palm trees and some oleander bushes for him to hide under. He's kind of getting the hang of walking here and he snuffled around in the beach grass yesterday. He still hates the harness and hides under the chairs when we offer it to him. Sometimes the desire to go out gets to be too much for him though, and so he submits to the harness. We sat in the sun yesterday morning, and then he got too warm and so moved into the shade of the oleander bush. All-in-all, we were probably out about 45 minutes which is a new record for George. Krissy isn't bothered by all of the things George is, and so she goes out walking in the morning and the evening (and she's quite insistent about that).
Today we may make a trek into Corpus Christi for groceries and cat food. When we drove into Port A, we crossed the bay, which looked like a mud flat to me. Nevertheless, there is a big bridge (a bridge to you and me), and it's called a "causeway" in Texas. This particular one is named for President John F. Kennedy on the map, and everyone calls it the "Kennedy Causeway," but when you approach it the sign says something else. Go figure. But to get back to what I was saying, we'll cross the causeway and then we'll be in Corpus Christi where all of the "big box" stores have lined up on either side of the road in their quest for the first crack at customers coming into the city from Port A and Padre Island.
We drove into the little town of Port A day a couple of days ago. There isn't much there but a bunch of ramshackle stores that would most assuredly blow away if a hurricane struck this area. Certainly the larger businesses are set up for a big blow. Most of the larger buildings are built of concrete. Mike was discussing the engineering of these structures. Some are wedge shaped with the point of the wedge facing away from the ocean. Some are just the opposite with the wedge facing into the ocean. Clearly, the latter is better for taking on a big wind. The structures on the island (with the exception of the little town) are few and far between. Since the whole place was leveled less than a century ago, I suppose it has taken businesses a very long time to decide to rebuild out here on the island. Those that have are either built to last, or built cheaply so that they can rebuild just as cheaply. It has us thinking a lot about hurricanes out here. I went through a hurricane when I was six, and what I remember most was the absolute deafening and relentless roar of the wind.
I'm going to try to get you some pictures of the oil rigs just off shore. They are out a long way--maybe a mile? I'm not very good with distances. We can see them, but the day we pulled in it was rather hazy and all but the largest of them was obscured. When we walked out on the beach a couple of days ago it was very clear and we were amazed at just how many structures are standing out there. A dozen or more, I'm guessing. There is also a shipping lane through the bay and into Corpus Christi and so there were a lot of ships out there as well. Mike counted nine. We weren't sure if they were anchored or moving. It's kind of cloudy today, although it is warm, and so if it's clear on the beach, I will take some pictures.
The beach itself is very nice. When we pulled in it was at high tide, and only about 12 feet of beach were above the water line. Then when we walked a couple of days ago, the tide was out revealing a nice wide beach. There are an impressive number of perfect scallop shells to be picked up; and there are also an impressive number of Portuguese Man of War jellyfish lying on the beach. I recognize them from when I lived in Hawaii where they also line the beach at Kaneohe Bay (the Marine Corps base).
I guess that's all I have for now. I'll try to get some pictures between now and the next time I write.
Thursday, February 7, 2008
But yesterday, the wind died down to what I would call "breezy." It was still chilly. It didn't get above 58 degrees all day. Some folks walked by and asked Mike about the truck. I talked some with the woman, who really didn't like traveling. They actually own their spot here, and I was trying to figure out why someone would buy into this place if they didn't like traveling. I didn't figure that one out yet. But I asked her about the wind, and she made it sound like the wind blew all the time.
This morning, we woke up to no wind and the temperature is already above 70 degrees at 10:00 a.m. Now that's more like it. I think it's going to be okay. Mike had checked the forecast the first evening, and so far, it's been right on. It should be nice for the next week or two if you can trust an extended forecast.
We drove into town yesterday, which is a typical beach town. It reminded us of Hawaii. There is a grocery store on the island, which is rather strange. It had some things that seemed quite unusual for a non-specialty kind of grocery, but then some of the stuff you'd expect to see wasn't there. We picked up some frozen margarita mix. Mike is trying to perfect his margaritas. This stuff was pretty good. The can gives you instructions for using the whole can; but we can't do that because we don't have a container (or a refrigerator) large enough. So he turned the instructions into the "1-part this and 2-parts that" kind of instructions and just used a few ounces of the frozen mix. They turned out great. Not too sugary (as those mixes tend to be) and not too tart. We'd been using fresh limes, but to get enough juice from fresh limes was pretty expensive. Have you priced limes lately? Even here, where citrus is grown, they are pretty expensive.
So that's about everything of note that we've done since we got here: perfecting our margaritas. Today it will actually be warm enough to sit by the pool or walk on the beach, and I figure the warmer it is, the better the margaritas will taste. Oh yes, and here's a tip: If you want a really good margarita, the "Perfect Margarita" at Applebee's is pretty darned good. We've found Applebee's all across the country.
Oh yes. I almost forgot. We drove into a neighborhood that is built so that all of the houses have some of the marina in their back yards--and, of course, everybody has a boat. Very expensive, I'm sure. If you ever watch CSI Miami, then you'll know what I'm talking about when I say the houses looked like that. But to get back to the neighborhood we drove through, all of the houses were constructed to make it possible to bring down aluminum shutters over the windows--to protect against hurricanes. Even our spot in this RV park has a "hurricane proof" enclosure so that people who own the spot have a place to store things while they are away. Hurricanes are obviously a big deal around here. (That would explain the concrete table and benches at our site.) We imagine Corpus Christi has a pretty cushy deal hiding behind the barrier islands, but that is no doubt the reason there isn't too much built up around here.
We heard about the tornadoes east of us on the news last night. I'm glad we've been such slow pokes getting across country because we could very well have been there. So I guess that's it on the weather disaster channel--that would be me. Things are going okay so far. Oh yes and Big Hug to Larry and Chuck. (Feel better now?)
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Sunday, February 3, 2008
We are on the end spot, and our nearest neighbor is probably 50 feet away. There is also Goat Creek, a small river that runs along the side of us and we are near the water. The creek is stocked with fish for catch and release. We are not fisher people, but it's still nice that there is fishing here. There are pools (closed for the winter) and spas, basketball and tennis courts. They show three movies each night on their cable TV. We looked at the selections for the next three nights, and there wasn't anything we'd heard of. So we're happy to be here staying for free. We've discovered that many of these parks, this one included, offer daily trash pick-up. No trekking off to find the dumpster. They are really a lot like five-star hotels--only difference is that you bring your room with you.
Mike has been pretty insistent that he wasn't going to be doing any driving or hiking on Superbowl Sunday, and so it just worked out this way. It's quite warm here--the warmest place we've been so far. I think I might actually wear shorts today. Yesterday it was 80 degrees in the afternoon when we arrived.
So here are some things I have written in my notes to tell you: When we passed over into Texas, we also passed into the Central time zone. Now we are two hours ahead of you. Also, we've been driving through the Chihuahua Desert which seems to consist only of creosote bushes. When we were on the other side of the Guadalupe Mountains (in New Mexico) we were also in the Chihuahua Desert, but we saw a LOT of Soap Tree Yuccas. Now it is just the creosote bushes, and not very pretty. The roads have been excellent in Texas--even the concrete freeways that are the bane of Mike's existence.
I've been keeping track of our expenses for propane, diesel, and lodging. The highest price we've paid for diesel was $4.25 per gallon in Death Valley, and the lowest price was $3.09 per gallon. Generally, it has been running around $3.40 per gallon and always more expensive than premium gasoline.
It's nice to have a couple of days to just sit and rest. We've been hiking and driving ever since we left. Not complaining, mind you, it's been a lot of fun. I guess I'm saying that we've been having too much fun. When we leave here, we will be driving to Port Aransas which is 30 minutes from Corpus Christi. I read about Corpus Christi in the tour book, and it sounds a lot like Portland (without the snow). If you notice my response to Lisa, in the last entry, I've written a little bit about it. Since writing that comment, I've done some reading of the articles I've torn out of diving magazines and it sounds as if there will be some diving there--especially off the oil rigs. The description of the sea life we might encounter sounds just like the Caribbean. There is also the possibility to see whale sharks, which would be quite a treat. They are not meat-eaters--they eat plankton--but they are large like Beluga whales and so they would be the largest fish we have ever seen.
There is also a lot to do in Corpus Christi, including two aquariums. I love a good aquarium. We will also be able to tour the USS Lexington which is an aircraft carrier dubbed the "Blue Ghost" because it was reported by Tokyo Rose at least four times to have been sunk during WWII. The description of the tour sounds fascinating.
So that's about all I have to say for now. If I don't write between here and Port Aransas, it'll be because there isn't anything to tell you. We're just hanging out for the next couple of days. So, enjoy the game, if that's what you'll be doing. And if you're not, then just take good care.
Saturday, February 2, 2008
Thursday, January 31, 2008
There are several different hikes one can take to see the caverns. We chose the audio-guided natural entrance tour. Some 250 million years ago, the region lay underneath the inland arm of an ancient sea. (Did I tell you that already?) Our audio guides informed us that this part of New Mexico and Western Texas were a beach not unlike the beaches of Florida or the Caribbean—a place one might honeymoon. Near the shore plants and animals built a limestone reef. By the time the sea withdrew, the reef stood hundreds of feet high, later to be buried under thousands of feet of soil. Some 15-20 million years ago, the ground uplifted. Naturally occurring sulfuric acid seeped into cracks in the limestone, gradually enlarging them to form a honeycomb of chambers. The fact that the caverns were formed by acid and not water is what makes these formations unique.
From March through October about a quarter million Mexican free-tailed bats summer in a section of the cave. Around sunset, they spiral up from the entrance to hunt for insects. It was this nightly exodous that led to the discovery of the cave in modern times. Around the turn of the 20th century, miners began to excavate bat guano—a potent fertilizer—for shipment to the citrus groves of southern California.
We entered through the natural mouth of the cave. Today there is good lighting and a well-maintained, albeit steep, walkway through the cave. Visitors of the early 1920’s entered by “bucket elevator,” as a pulley lowered them into the Bat Cave in a guano bucket. The Big Room is the largest single room most cave visitors will ever see, unless they go to Borneo where there is a cave with a larger undecorated chamber. The Big Room is 1,800 feet long at its longest point, and 1,100 feet at its widest. It encompasses 8.2 acres.
The cave formations are astonishingly beautiful. I wish I could have taken pictures for you to see. Everyone should make this a place to see at some point in life. It is in a remote area of the country, and the closest place to stay is in Carlsbad, which is 20 miles from the caverns. Still, it is so worth the visit. I visited the caves for the first time when I was three. At that time, all the tours were ranger-led. I returned when I was 18 and the cave was marked with a system of signs (always boring to read in my view). When I returned with Mike during the first year of our marriage, they had gone to the audio stick-type of guidance, which is far superior to either of the previous methods. We each had our own today, and it was money well spent.
We will leave Carlsbad tomorrow and head almost due south through Texas. We are planning to visit Big Bend National Park, and then head east to the Gulf Coast. We expect that trip (to the Gulf Coast) to be about a week to 10 days away from where we are now. We have enjoyed seeing this part of the world, but it has been quite cold and windy (although the cave is a constant 59 degrees). We have been surprised at how far south we have had to go to reach truly warm temperatures. That’s it for now. Take care.
People first visited the Guadalupes about 12,000 years ago, hunting the camels, mammoths, and other animals that flourished in the wetter climate of the waning Ice Age. When the Spaniards arrived in the Southwest in the mid-16th century, Mescalero Apache periodically camped near the springs at the base of the mountains and climbed to the highlands to hunt and forage. As American prospectors, settlers, and cavalry pushed west, the apache made the mountainous areas their bases and fought to ward off encroachers. By the late 1880’s however, virtually all the Indians had been killed or forced onto a reservation. (It always makes me sad to read these histories.)
Guadalupe Mountains is a “hike only” park, and there are no roads through the park. The only way to see it is on foot. We chose to visit McKittrick Canyon because its walls shelter the only year-round stream in the park, and it also offered us shelter from the wind. Additionally, it is known as the most beautiful spot in Texas. The water creates a 3-mile-long oasis of oak and Alligator juniper (known by its bark), Texas madrone, and maple. The canyon itself is nearly 5 miles long, but we chose to walk just the first 2.3 miles (one way, thus, 4.6 miles in and out) to the Pratt Cabin—a little cabin that was eventually donated to the US Forestry Service by Mr. Pratt, who lived there in the early 1900’s. It wasn’t anything particularly ornate, but the entire structure, including the roof, was made of limestone. Very interesting. It would have been cool in the summer, and even cooler in the winter!
McKittrick Canyon exposes millions of years of geological events. During the Permian period, about 250 million years ago, an inland sea covered parts of West Texas and southeast New Mexico. As the climate changed the ocean dried up and left the Capitan Reef high and dry. It is horseshoe shaped and 400 miles long. Most of it is still buried. Sediments and mineral salts buried both basin and reef over the next eons. Then the region began to rise, and erosion has slowly reexposed the seabed with part of the fossil reef—today’s Guadalupe range—towering above.
I have some pictures for you. Here is the link:
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
I have some miscellaneous pictures to post, but my internet connection is quite slow. I'm afraid I won't be able to do it unless I figure out some clever way to boost the signal. We are actually quite surprised to have internet here at all, but the cell phone signal is booming in. We were on the road for about three hours today getting here, and so there isn't much to tell. We traveled a red road on US Highway 180/62. This is the same road that will take us to Carlsbad Caverns.
So, since I don't have much to tell you, I thought I would let you in on some of the notes I've been taking just for times like this. First of all, we figured out that the Fry's grocery store chain is owned by Kroger, which is the same company that owns Fred Meyer. Now this grocery store, electronics superstore, Fred Meyer store has us pretty befuddled. We are almost certain that the grocery store and the electronics superstore are connected because of the identical logos, but the Fred Meyer connection has us stumped. It isn't important, just mildly interesting. We've also come upon some restaurants called "Famous Sam's," which leads us to this question: Are you holding out on us Sam? Are you famous? Should we ask you for your autograph?
We went to sleep in the middle of a big windstorm last night. We also saw the first tumbleweeds of the trip while we were in Las Cruces. The town of Las Cruces is pretty boring, and so the tumbleweeds seemed right at home there. When we awoke this morning, the sky was blue and the winds were calm, so we don't really know what the buffeting of last night was all about. We'd follow the news if there were any, but all the news these days seems to be conjecture, speculation, and opinion. A waste of time in our book.
The other thing we've noticed since crossing into Arizona and New Mexico is the number of border patrol officers we've seen. I've read that Saguaro National Park is a crossing point for people coming into the country illegally. We've been through two border patrol checkpoints ourselves. One of them asked us to "state our citizenship." All I heard was "state," and so I said "Oregon. Duh, United States." He sort of looked at our trailer, and then waved us past. I don't know why these guys make me so nervous. I doubt either of us looks the least bit Latino.
So I'll try one more time to upload the pictures. And . . . no dice! So that's all I have for you today. We'll explore the park tomorrow, and I'll have something more interesting for you.
And now it is the day after tomorrow. I'll tell you what we did yesterday in a separate entry, but for now I'll let you know (if I can even publish this) that we are in cell phone range, but the connection is very slow. I've tried again to post the pictures and I haven't been able to. We explored McKittrick Canyon in Guadalupe Mountains NP yesterday and I have some pictures of that to post in addition to the pictures I've wanted to post for this entry. I won't be able to publish those until we get someplace with a better connection.
For now I'll tell you that after our hike yesterday, we went back to the trailer to have dinner and sleep; but the wind was so bad, and the gusts were so sudden and, hm, violent, that we had to leave. One gust hit us like a truck and actually rocked the trailer, possibly up off of it's tires. We decided to go right then and there. Now we're in Carlsbad, New Mexico, which is a crummy little town. South of us is Carlsbad Caverns. We're going to explore that today, and then move on tomorrow. We'll go due south through Texas and down to Big Bend National Park. Along the way, we have three free nights in Kerrville, Texas, compliments of a man who was parked next to us in Tucson. He was having an electrical problem with his rig, and Mike helped him fix it. He owns this park and so he gave us the three free nights. Not bad. And, of course, Mike was thrilled with the opportunity to work on something. He'll never be able to get through all the projects he has on his list of things to do because he always figures out new projects--even if they are someone else's project to begin with. Project-mania. A new form of mental illness.
Okay, now I'm going to try again to publish this. If I can't do it, I'm afraid you'll have several entries to read next time around. Take care.
Monday, January 28, 2008
This was a very interesting landscape. The sand was white as snow, as promised in the name. To get there, we drove north across the White Sands Missile Range. The park was established in 1933 in order to protect the dunes themselves. Otherwise, this is a place where the military fires off missiles and it sometimes means that the park is closed for a few hours at a time. It is possible to check this schedule, however, and apparently no firings were planned for today. Mike kept whining about wanting to see a missile, and I told him it probably was best if we didn't see one.
Most of the world's sand is made from quartz, which is a hard silicon mineral. The dunes of the White Sands are unique because they form the world's largest gypsum dune field. Brief, but heavy, summer rains dissolve calcium and sulfur from the surrounding mountains. The area receives moisture from rains and also from snowmelt. Ordinarily, rivers would carry this material to the sea, but there are no rivers in this area. Moisture collects in shallow depressions (playas) and then either soaks into the ground or evaporates. As the water evaporates, the mineral concentration is higher and eventually dries up to form gypsum (calcium sulfate).
There is a lake in the area (Lake Lucero) which can only be seen on a once-monthly ranger-led tour (because it takes you out onto the missile range). Along the shores of this lake and also on the alkali flats (four-mile hike) west of the dunes, beds of large crystals up to four-feet long cover the ground. These crystals are eventually eroded into a fine gypsum powder. Strong winds (like the ones we witnessed today) blow sugar-fine grains of gypsum northeasterly across the basin. These grains rub against one another turning them white. Winds of over 50 miles per hour are common in the spring. Mike estimated the winds today to be 10-15 miles per hour with gusts up to 30 miles per hour.
Despite the wind, we still took a short hike (one mile) on the Dune Life Nature Trail. It was very windy but still warm, making it easily tolerable. The trail was marked with huge creosote-type logs, but we imagine a ranger must check the trail fairly frequently to make sure the trail markers are still visible. Although we made big footprints, they were covered over by blowing sand in less than 30 seconds.
We were able to see the many species of plants that grow in this area and that have been able to evolve to tolerate the highly alkaline soil. Two species are the Rio Grande Cottonwood trees and also the Soap Tree Yucca (the New Mexico state flower). We were told that these plants survive the ever advancing dunes by keeping at least some of their foliage above the sand. I have included pictures of these yucca, and even though these appear to be 2-foot plants, they are actually potentially 32-foot plants that have managed to grow fast enough to stay above the sand. Same goes for the Cottonwood trees. Of course, the trees have lost their leaves for the winter, but in the fall, they provide some color as their leaves turn orange.
Also, we came to some areas of the sand that appeared to be littered with pebbles of varying sizes. These were actually fragments of fossilized roots--the remains of roots and stems that were once encased in gypsum sand pedestals. (Some of the grass-type plants are able to maintain their hold on the ever-drifing sand, and so pedestals form in the sand.) Some of these fossils were merely filled gaps in the wood structure while in others, the wood fibers were still intact and encased in the gypsum. Very cool. I did pick up one of the larger ones we saw. It had some darker areas on the bottom. We were touching them and trying to figure out what they were, when we dislodged a spider that was apparently using it for his home. We put it back where we found it and let the spider get on with this life. We also came across some Hoary Rosemarymint that had a sweet mint-type scent and some Rubber Rabbitbrush that derives its name from its sap, which contains latex. It was very rubbery and flexible, but the latex sap lacks sufficient quantity to make the plant commercially viable. (Smart plant.)
We enjoyed our trip to the dunes today, and it was a unique experience from other parks/monuments we've seen. Oh yes, I didn't get any pictures of the Rio Grande Cottonwoods, but they are the largest plants found within the dune field. They attract a variety of wildlife because of their size and they are very gnarly in appearance. The pictures aren't anything special, but hopefully, you can get an idea what we saw. Here is the link. Enjoy:
We will be moving on to Guadalupe Mountains National Park tomorrow, weather permitting. This park is at a rather high elevation, and so we can only visit if there is no snow. It is a rather remote park on the way to Carlsbad, New Mexico, where we plan to visit Carlsbad Caverns NP. Guadalupe Mountains NP is actually in Texas, and the road to Carlsbad takes us through El Paso and the tippy-top of state of Texas. We plan to stay in the park, and so it is probable that we will be out of internet and cell range. If you don't hear from us for a couple of days, that will be why.
Sunday, January 27, 2008
We're looking into some sort of signal boost device for the wireless internet. Apparently, mine doesn't have enough poop, and that's why we've been having trouble with any of the free wi-fi that is available. Mike claims it will be faster than using the phone if we get this device, and as always, I have given up trying to understand these things.
The tour book tells us that "a little forest of crosses marking the graves of members of a caravan ambushed by Mescalero Apaches" came to identify Las Cruces. It sits at the foot of the Organ Mountains, a very pretty mountain range to the northeast of town. By the mid-19th century, Las Cruces was a major supply point for mining operations and forts that protected the trade routs to Santa Fe and points west.
The town's real foundation is agriculture. It is irrigated by the Rio Grande River (which appeared mostly dry to us). They are the leading producer of alfalfa, chilies, onions, corn, cotton and pecans. It is also the home of New Mexico State University.
We are probably going to spend the day seeking out the above electronic device, and tomorrow we will probably drive up to see the White Sands National Monument. More later.
Friday, January 25, 2008
And then, because we walked right past the place, we visited the Arizona History Museum, which was very interesting. It covered the area around the Civil War into the early 19oo's. They had a stagecoach that was really fun to see. It even had the "strong box" and "steamer trunks" loaded on top. I can't even imagine what it must have been like to travel cross country in one. Sterner folk than I for sure.
After that, we were really filled up with reading little plaquards. I had a hard time seeing with my mono-vision contact lenses, and so I took them out and used my reading glasses--an improvement, but not really satisfactory vision. Then while I was visiting the "mercantile," which was actually a gift shop, Mike noticed a write-up of a little cafe and a picture of Eggs Benedict. Then he was all about getting some Eggs Benedict, so we went there for lunch. It was nearly 2:00, and so the place was empty. Very nice.
Oh yes, I wanted to mention how polite the students were at the U of A. When they saw us struggling with the map, they were kind enough to offer directions. It reminded me of when I visited Washington, D.C. ten years ago and received the same helpful treatment. There were other museums to visit at the University, but we had enough with the two we saw. We had talked about seeing the Mission, but I had run out of energy for that too.
We came home and I've studied the maps for the next leg of our adventure. We've kind of known what we were doing up to now, but from here on we'll be winging it. So the plan is to get an early start and drive to Las Cruces, NM. There is a nice RV Resort there that was recommended to us. We'll stay there a few days and during our stay we'll drive about 50 miles north to see White Sands National Monument. After we leave Las Cruces, we'll drive on to Carlsbad, NM, but on the way we'll spend a couple of nights at Guadalupe Mountains National Park. There is a campground in the park and since it is one of the "least visited" of the parks in the parks system, we figure we'll find room there. No hook-ups of course, and so we'll only stay one or two nights. (It'll give George a chance to get out of the trailer. The few times he's been out and willing to get off the step, he's headed in a straight-line due north. We figure he's heading for home.)
After that, we'll go on to Carlsbad, NM and spend a couple of days exploring Carlsbad Caverns National Park--my absolute favorite park (and I've seen a few, believe me). We've been there together before when we headed off on a three-day weekend from Phoenix. We drove into Lordsburg NM for the night on a Friday night (late--very late) and immediately got pulled over by some cops who were dying to show us their radar. We declined and they were very disappointed. Fortunately, we weren't ticketed, but we've always remembered Lordsburg for that little incident.
Then after that, we'll continue almost due south to Big Bend National Park in southern Texas. We will, no doubt, pass through a village that's missing its idiot. After that, we don't know, but probably on to Corpus Christi and maybe do some diving if we find any on the Gulf Coast of Texas. Hope all is going well with all of you.
Thursday, January 24, 2008
We saw pictures of the density of the saguaros from 1933 through the present. The density has decreased drastically. However, now that they are protected, they are making a comeback. The decrease was due to building in the area, but that wasn’t the only problem. The literature I had didn’t specify anything beyond that, except to say that there were other problems. In any event, I think I am falling in love with the desert. The variety of cacti and animals is truly impressive, and the scenery is spectacular. Today the lighting was just right and the sky was filled with puffy white clouds. The air seems clean here, and the sky a beautiful turquoise blue.
We drove the Cactus Forest Loop, which is eight miles. There are several turnouts that give views of the surrounding mountains. It is a beautiful valley. We hiked the Cactus Garden Trail, which was about two miles. When we were finished, we felt we’d seen everything the landscape had to offer. I would have liked to have seen more wildlife. As it is, we will have to settle for what we saw in the museum—and that was quite a treat.
As we understand it, the Saguaro is something of a multi-story condominium with many different kinds of animals living in pecked out holes within them. There is a particular kind of owl called an Elf Owl that I would dearly have liked to have seen. I kept my eyes peeled, but to no avail. The literature tells us that the environment within the Saguaro is 20 degrees cooler in the summer and 20 degrees warmer in the winter. After a rain, they are able to absorb 200 gallons of water—enough to last them an entire year. They don’t have a long tap root like the mesquite do. Rather, they have a network of roots that spread out just under the surface of the sand at least as wide a radius as they are tall. It’s quite an impressive story of adaptation.
So that’s about all I have to say about the Saguaro. Tomorrow we are going to see the photography museum at the University of Arizona and also the aviation museum. I don’t know if we will have time to see the mission since we are moving on Saturday. We have enjoyed our week in Tucson, and we enjoyed just stopping and staying in one place for a while. As I write this I don’t know where we are headed next, except to say that we will be in New Mexico.
Here is the link to the pictures I took today. Enjoy.